Snorkel

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SnorkelIf you’ve ever found yourself hood deep in water without a snorkel, you’ve found yourself  problems.  Want a quick way to ruin that bullet proof engine?  Try filling it with water.  The solution to this drowning problem is a snorkel.  Much like floating on your belly in the hawaiian tropics with your goggles, fins, and snorkel.  This DIY project uses the same basic principle.  Take the air intake of your engine and put it above the water level.  Simple enough.  Let’s get started.

All credit goes to jfiscus from TerrainStompers.com for the build and pictures for this article.

As far as brand names go ARB is probably the most popular.  Their snorkel kits sell from about $350-$400.  And as essential as this piece of equipment can be when traveling down into the river, we’re going to build it for way less.  Like $300-$400 less.

Build List:

  • 1 - 2″ PVC Pipe 10 ft Length : $6.00
  • 3 - 2″ 45 Degree PVC Elbows : $1.50 each
  • 3 - 2″ 90 Degree PVC Elbows: $1.50 each
  • 1 - Small Can PVC Glue: $3.00
  • 1 - Tube JB Weld : $7.00
  • 1 - Can Krylon Fusion Black Spray Paint : $4
  • 1 - 2-2.5″ hose clamp sheet metal screws (for attaching to A-Post) : $2

Total Project Cost: ~$30 not including tools

Tools Required:

2″ Holesaw

PVC, Sawzall, or Hack Saw to cut PVC

Sandpaper to make grit for paint to stick to PVC

Step One - Test Fit Assembly

Engine Snorkel Component

Click For Full Size

Coming off of the airbox, on the side closest to driver, you’ll want to use your 45 degree elbow.  Then attach a cut length of the PVC pipe to another 45 degree elbow.  Then you’ll want a cut length of PVC to through the fender.  You’ll need your 2″ holesaw to make this cut to fit it.

Once off the fender you’ll attach a 90 degree elbow to make the turn up the side of the Jeep.  Attach a cut length of PVC pipe leading up to a 45 degree elbow that will take 1 more cut length of PVC pipe all the way to the top of the A -Post.  I hope it’s not too confusing.  The pictures should clear it up.

Once you’ve test fitted everything it’s time to move on to actual assembly and installation.

Side Snorkel

Click For Full Size

Step Two - Assembly and Glue

Referring to the previous instructions and the pictures you’re going to assemble the PVC together using the PVC glue.  Use the included application brush an apply a decent amount to both the contacting parts of the PVC according to the directions on the can.  Assemble the inside engine piece first, not inlcuding the length of PVC going through the fender.  Then assemble the outside pieces.  Once the outside part is assembled and glued, use sandpaper to sand the entire outside assembly.

Snorkel Outside

Step Three - Paint

Click For Full Size

Now you can paint the entire snorkel or just what will be visible on the outside.  Whichever pieces you want to paint, use the sandpaper and rough them up pretty good.  Then take your spray paint and get to painting.  Check the directions on the can to figure out drying times and exact methods for painting.

Step Four - Installation

Once everything is dry you’re going to begin final assembly and insallation.  Using the hole saw, cut a hole in the airbox. Place the engine piece in the hole and using JB weld bond the two pieces.  Once that is dry move on to the PVC pipe that will run through the fender.  If you haven’t already cut the fender through using the whole saw and cleaning it up with a sawzall if you’re not able to get clean through.  Glue the PVC piece to the engine compartment’s 45 degree elbow.

Then take your outside component of the snorkel and glue that to the PVC piece going through the fender.  The attach the outside snorkel piece to the A-Post with the clamps.  When you plan on going underwater, make sure you plug up the factory intake.

Completed Snorkel

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