On the 4.0 L engine, both the Intake Manifold and the Exhaust Manifold are located on the left side of the engine and must be removed together.

Removal of Intake and Exhaust Manifold

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 3/8″ socket wrench.
   
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. Disconnect the accelerator cable, cruise control cable, if equipped and transmission line pressure cable.
4. Disconnect all electrical connectors on the intake manifold.
5. Disconnect and remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail assembly.
6. Remove the fuel rail and injectors.
7. Loosen the accessory drive belts.
8. Remove the power steering pump.
9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold and discard the seal.
10. Remove the intake and exhaust manifold attaching nuts and bolts.
11. Remove the manifold assembly and gasket.

Installation of Exhaust and Intake Manifold

1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly. Install a new gasket over the alignment dowels and position the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Install bolt No. 3 finger-tight.
2. Install the intake manifold and the remaining bolts and washers.
3. On 1987-90 models, tighten bolts, in sequence, to the following torque specifications:
   1. Bolt 1-30 ft. lbs. (40.5 Nm)
   2. Bolts 2-11-23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm)
   3. Bolts 12 and 13-30 ft. lbs. (40.5 Nm)
   4. See Figure 1
      
4. On 1991-98 models, tighten bolts, in sequence, to the following torque specifications:
   1. Bolts 1-5-23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm)
   2. Bolts 6 and 7-17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)
   3. Bolts 8-11-23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm)
   4. See Figure 2
      
5. Install the fuel rail and injectors.
6. Install the power steering pump and tension the accessory belt to specification.
7. Using new O-rings, install the fuel supply and return lines.
8. Connect all electrical connectors, vacuum connectors, throttle cable, cruise control cable and transmission lines pressure cable.
9. Install the air cleaner assembly.
10. Using a new seal, connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold and tighten the bolts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
12. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Fig. 1: Torque sequence for 1987-1990 models

Fig. 2: Torque sequence for 1991-1998 models

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The Problem
The break usually comes very close to where the two pipe from each side of the header meet. If you have not had a header crack on your inline 6 you are in one of the following positions: it already cracked and was replaced by a previous owner, your Jeep Cherokee was built after 1999 where they changed the casting, or you have just been lucky so far, so congrats.

The Solution

There is only one solution to prevent this from happening.  Immediately replace it with one like this Exhaust Manifold from AutoParts123.com.  This design has two accordion like pipes connecting the last ports on each end to the rest of the header.

However, there are two solutions to fixing this after it happens.  You can again purchase and replace the header with this Exhaust Manifold from AutoParts123.com. Again this design will not have the same stress on the header as the OEM’s inferior design.

In some cases you can have the crack welded and not only with this fix the problem of the cracked header, but in most cases the extra weld will reinforce that area preventing it from cracking in the future.  Obviously the latter solution can generally be easier on the budget, especially if you have the expertise and equipment to weld it yourself.

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All credit goes to jfiscus from TerrainStompers.com for the build and pictures for this article.

As far as brand names go ARB is probably the most popular.  Their snorkel kits sell from about $350-$400.  And as essential as this piece of equipment can be when traveling down into the river, we’re going to build it for way less.  Like $300-$400 less.

Build List:

• 1 - 2″ PVC Pipe 10 ft Length : $6.00
• 3 - 2″ 45 Degree PVC Elbows : $1.50 each
• 3 - 2″ 90 Degree PVC Elbows: $1.50 each
• 1 - Small Can PVC Glue: $3.00
• 1 - Tube JB Weld : $7.00
• 1 - Can Krylon Fusion Black Spray Paint : $4
• 1 - 2-2.5″ hose clamp sheet metal screws (for attaching to A-Post) : $2

Total Project Cost: ~$30 not including tools

Tools Required:

2″ Holesaw

PVC, Sawzall, or Hack Saw to cut PVC

Sandpaper to make grit for paint to stick to PVC

Step One - Test Fit Assembly

Click For Full Size

Coming off of the airbox, on the side closest to driver, you’ll want to use your 45 degree elbow.  Then attach a cut length of the PVC pipe to another 45 degree elbow.  Then you’ll want a cut length of PVC to through the fender.  You’ll need your 2″ holesaw to make this cut to fit it.

Once off the fender you’ll attach a 90 degree elbow to make the turn up the side of the Jeep.  Attach a cut length of PVC pipe leading up to a 45 degree elbow that will take 1 more cut length of PVC pipe all the way to the top of the A -Post.  I hope it’s not too confusing.  The pictures should clear it up.

Once you’ve test fitted everything it’s time to move on to actual assembly and installation.

Click For Full Size

Step Two - Assembly and Glue

Referring to the previous instructions and the pictures you’re going to assemble the PVC together using the PVC glue.  Use the included application brush an apply a decent amount to both the contacting parts of the PVC according to the directions on the can.  Assemble the inside engine piece first, not inlcuding the length of PVC going through the fender.  Then assemble the outside pieces.  Once the outside part is assembled and glued, use sandpaper to sand the entire outside assembly.

Step Three - Paint

Now you can paint the entire snorkel or just what will be visible on the outside.  Whichever pieces you want to paint, use the sandpaper and rough them up pretty good.  Then take your spray paint and get to painting.  Check the directions on the can to figure out drying times and exact methods for painting.

Step Four - Installation

Once everything is dry you’re going to begin final assembly and insallation.  Using the hole saw, cut a hole in the airbox. Place the engine piece in the hole and using JB weld bond the two pieces.  Once that is dry move on to the PVC pipe that will run through the fender.  If you haven’t already cut the fender through using the whole saw and cleaning it up with a sawzall if you’re not able to get clean through.  Glue the PVC piece to the engine compartment’s 45 degree elbow.

Then take your outside component of the snorkel and glue that to the PVC piece going through the fender.  The attach the outside snorkel piece to the A-Post with the clamps.  When you plan on going underwater, make sure you plug up the factory intake.

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It’s been less than a month since IndyJeepBlog.com has been “Officially Launched”.  What started out just a few months ago as indyjeep.wordpress.com has grown into a small niche blog.  The last month has given me a lot of “Firsts”.

It was the first time Indy Jeep has received over 400 visitors in a day, thanks to FBLife.com for picking up my article on the Jeep 2500.  It was also the first time we’ve used the domain IndyJeepBlog.com.  And last but not least:

Today we recieved our first subscription to our RSS feed.  That’s right.  Google Analytics has informed me Indy Jeep has 1 official subscriber to this blog.  So to whoever you are, thanks.  I hope more people will subscribe and support Indy Jeep as I attempt to bring you all things Jeep XJ in one place.

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In any case, I drummed up some new pictures and some specs.

Manufacturer: Beijing Jeep Corporation

Model: 2500

Specs (All in metric sorry) - 

• Engine: 2.5 L  Inline 4 Cylinder
• Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
• Transfer Case: TTS 1354
• Front Suspension: Double Wishbone w/ Coil Spring
• Rear Suspension: Leaf Springs
• Top Speed: 145 km/h
• Power: 78 / 4800 (kw / rpm)
• Torque: 180 / 3000 (Nm / rpm)
• Gas Tank Size: 76 L
• Length, Width, Height: 4300mm x 1794mm x 1700mm
• Wheelbase: 2576 mm
• Minimum Ground Clearance: 180 mm

Features

• 16″ Aluminum Alloy Wheels
• Power Steering
• P225/70R16  Tires
• Heater and AC
• Electric Rear Mirror
• Keyless Entry, Eletric Locks
• Power Windows
• Defroster Wipers
• Fully Adjustable Front and Back Seats
• Drive and Front Passenger Airbags
• CD and Radio Sound System
• Central High Location Brake Light

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Alright, I feel that it’s my duty to provide a rip-off report due to the fact that I was ripped off by such a product many years ago when these first started surfacing.  The classic Jeep Cherokee Performance Chip.  Do a quick search in eBay on “jeep cherokee performance” and no doubt you will see the page littered with claims of ‘100 Horsepower’ and ‘+40 MPG’ all of which seem to be too good to be true.  And what’s your gut tell you?  Steer clear, but then the little performance hog in you wonders if it could actually work, even though the product is only $20.

Well your gut was correct.  These products are ripoffs.  Here’s how the creators of these high performance chips claim you increase your horsepower OR get better gas mileage:

“The way our Performance Modules work is by sending a modified signal through a factory sensor in the engine compartment, called the IAT sensor. This signal alters the computer and the computer then reprograms itself for a more efficient air/fuel mixture. Your vehicle from the factory may come too rich or too lean - meaning too much fuel (rich) or not enough fuel (lean). You may see cars and trucks on the road blowing a lot of black smoke out of their exhaust pipes. This means that their motor is running rich and they are throwing money away and wasting all of that gas and hurting the environment as all of that black smoke is raw, unburned fuel.

By modifying the air/fuel mixture to a more efficient mixture, you are tapping into hidden performance, and by gaining performance in your vehicle, you do not have to push the gas pedal down as hard to get up to speed, so therefore the fuel savings are enormous!” - mindblower_performance

Wow, that makes sense right?  Well don’t start typing your PayPal email address yet.  Let’s be honest gains of 100 horse power out of a $20 module are completely unrealistic.  And as I said before, I purchased one with the hopes that it just might work.  Well, I can reassure your gut instinct, these claims are 100% false.

Product Descrption:

So how does this high performance chip work?  It’s quite simple actually, actually a little too simple.  The ‘module’ wires in between the cars IAT or MAS sensor and the cars computer.  It ‘tricks’ the car into thinking it’s running too lean thereby adding fuel or ‘horsepower’; or into thinking it’s running to rich thereby using less gas or ‘improved mileage’.  So what is this absolutely amazing module?  It’s a resistor.  Yeah, like the ones you can buy at radioshack for a quarter.  That’s how it alters the signal, it adds resistance.  A simple trick into making your car run leaner or richer.

Will It Work At All?

It could possibly work a little, but you are altering a signal sent by OEM equipment.  You could possibly end up failing smog or ruining your engine.  If your looking for a performance chip look into JET Chips.  These are real performance chips, but not at the low low price of $20.  There are much better ways of increasing your horsepower.  Take a look at my article that deals with exhaust and intake modifications.

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Manufacturer: Rubicon Express

Product: 2″ Budget Lift Kit

Price: $230 - $260

The Good:

It seems to be cliche for this class, budget, of product, but it doesn’t go without saying that this is a great price.  Most people I’ve talked to about this lift kit from Rubicon Express say they can’t get over the price.  And they’re right on with this lift coming in in the mid $200 range.

Unlike some budget Cherokee lift kits, one benefit to the Rubicon Express Budget Lift Kit is that it comes with shocks.  Unfortunetly, theres a lot of ‘budget’ kits out there that are either poor build quality or lack even the few necessary components to perform the simple lift, like shocks.

Even though it’s a budget kit, it is of the highest build quality.  The Rubicon Express Budget Lift Kit comes with great installation instructions that can be found on Rubicon Express’ website here.  I wouldn’t say installation is a breeze, because every install has it’s problems, however, installation is very straight forward and with those instructions provided by Rubicon Express, it makes installation just that much easier.

The Bad:

I can hear you saying it now, “what’s the catch?”.  Well, while this offer probably doesn’t sound like it’s too good to be true, it still has its catches.  For one, the ride’s definetly a bit rougher and stiffer than stock.  This is mainly do to the add-a-leaf stiffening up the back suspension.

Also, don’t expect to be able to throw 33″ inch tires under your XJ after you’re done with your install.  You’re looking at most at a 30″ tire with decent articulation.  (Checkout my article on Lift Kits and Tire Clearance)  Obviously because this is not a complete suspension kit you’re not going to get quite as much articulation as you would with say a 3″ suspension kit.

The Bottom Line:

The price speaks for itself on this one.  If you’re looking for a little extra clearance and don’t want to break the bank, then you should definetly consider this as an option.  If you’re looking to throw 33’s under your Cherokee, you should probably look at something a bit bigger.  Without the risk of sounding completely redundant, if this fits your budget and into your plans it’s a good deal.

Kit Includes:

• 1.75″ Coil Spring Spacers
• Add-A-Leaf 2″ Half LE
• Replacement Center Pins for Leafs
• 18″ Brake Line
• 4 Twin Tube Shocks

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As always, here’s what you care about, the bottom line:

Lift Size and Tire Size:

Stock - 30×9.5 R15 or P255 70 R15 (The P255 is taller, but not as wide)

1″-2″ Lift - 30×9.5 R15

3″-4″ Lift -31×10.5 R15

4.5″ Lift - 32×11.5 R15 or 33×12.5 R15 (With Fender Modification)

6.5″ Lif t- 33×12.5 R15 or 35×12.5 R15 (With Fend Mod + Bump Stops)

8″ Lift - 35×12.5 R15

What else do I need?

The notes to the side of those tire sizes are only what is required to fit the tire under the Cherokee / XJ, not other necessary modifications.  There are other things that need to be done in order to drive the vehicle at certain heights.  For example once you go about 4.5″ of lift you absolutely need a slip yoke eliminator.  Above or at 3″ of lift and you need to relocate the brake lines or buy new longer brake lines.  Even at 4″-4.5″ of lift you’ll need to drop the transfer case with a transfer case drop kit.

This should be a good starting point to figure out how much lift you want and how big tires you will be able to fit under your Cherokee.  In the future I’ll post a couple articles on installing lift kits.

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Manufacturer: Goodyear

Product: Goodyear MT/R

Price: $169 (31×10.5×15) - $187 (33×12.5×15) at TireRack.com

The Good:

These are great offroad tires.  Big, knobby, steel reinforced sidewalls, and just plain good looking.  The Goodyear MT/R can really handle well offroad and given the steel reinforced sidewalls, they make you feel a little more comfortable that you won’t puncture that unfixable spot.  These perform amazing in mud and snow conditions.  They give your vehicle an amazing stance and really do look great.  On road you can expect good handling in adverse weather conditions be it rain, snow, or just every day driving.

The Bad:

If you thought you got poor gas mileage before, prepare to start spending some extra bucks at the pump every month with these.  If you’ve been using normal All-Terrain tires, you’ll most likely see a drop of a couple MPG after you throw these on.  They are a bit pricey when compared to your general All Terrain tires.  They wear a bit faster than I’d like as well.  The other thing to note is the road noise.  The road noise is noticabley louder.  So if you’re already go a noisy ride, prepare for just a bit more.

The Bottom Line:

If your Jeep Cherokee doesn’t see much off the road, you may want to consider purchasing some All Terrain tires.  If you want to be able to go anywhere and don’t mind the reduced MPG, the noise, and the cost then this is the tire for you.  It is absolutely a great performer off the road. 

I put a pair of 31×10.5×15’s on my ‘91 Two-Door Jeep XJ and these did absolutely amazing.  I was able to easily drive through 3 feet of snow and plow through large snow drifts without ever getting stuck.  Off the road in muddy conditions, these did just great.  Very little slippage and great grip.

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